I’ve been on vacation for a week. In lieu of a writing update, allow me to bring you along my travel itinerary of the New Orleans French Quarter.
March 14th, the morning:
Flight is delayed by about five hours due to heavy wind and backed up flights. The airport starts to look a little bit like the Super Dome after Katrina. A few more hours and roving bands of looters might have started to riot against the TSA.
Mid-afternoon: Our three and a half hour flight finally lands. We checked into the Maison Dupuy, a beautiful hotel on Toulouse streets on the north side of the french quarter. After perusing our room and getting settled, we go outside to start our vacation. The weather is a cool mid 60s, perfect for strolling the narrow roads of the old city.
Late-afternoon: We eat at Remoulade. I had a shrimp po’boy, my first taste of Louisiana cuisine. The bread is fantastic, a cross between a crumbly dinner roll and french bread. Afterwards, we got some beignets (fried dough suffocated in powdered sugar) from the famous Cafe du Monde. Despite my on again, off again, allergy to coffee, I had a cafe au lait for the experience. Very unnecessary. The fresh-squeezed orange juice is much preferable.
March 15th morning: We have breakfast at the Cafe Beignet near the statues of jazz musicians. I ahd the french bread french toast, an interesting take on a pretty standard breakfast item. Again, the fresh squeezed orange juice is an excellent choice.
We spend the mid-morning touring the city beginning with a stroll of the french market filled with the various sellers of dresses and watches and touristy crap along side local foodstuffs and similar offerings. We walked around Jackson Square beside the be-horsed statue of Andrew Jackson in mid gallop of his defense of the city. We listened to the tuba playing street musicians and took in the Mississippi air.
Our afternoon was taken up by a bus trip to the Oak Alley Plantation. Our bus driver was an encyclopedia of creative tense usage, an interesting taking on the usual rambling monologue. The Oak Alley Plantation is, itself, a gorgeous greek revival family house from the 1800s. The surrounding oak trees, each around 300 years old or more, form a shaded driveway of sorts, almost like statues. The house was equally ornate and gorgeous with some old rooms and period furniture in place.
On our return from the plantation, we stopped into the Meltdown Popsicle stand. I had a pineapple cilantro Popsicle. I’m not sure I would order that again…
After an afternoon nap, we had dinner at the Gumbo Shop, a popular and moderately upscale restaurant nestled amongst one of the old french courtyards. Our waiter was a jovial ex-navy seaman who was somewhat confused by my fellow traveler’s disinterest in cajun cuisine. I made up fr that by ordering the crawfish etoufee, chicken andoulle gumbo, and praline sundae.
Again we went to bed after some more gift shopping. We bought some beignet mix, some postcards, and a whole collection of shot glasses.
March 16th morning: My favorite breakfast in New Orleans was at the Court of Two Sisters. Their jazz buffet was well worth the $20 something per person expense. A trio of jazz musicians played while the waiters kept an endless supply of orange juice refilled between plates of crawfish salad, turtle soup, grits and grillades, bananas foster, and the best sweet potatoes I’ve ever had. The courtyard was itself a beautiful arrangement beneath a canopy of wisteria, sadly not yet in bloom.
Instead of spending our entire visit in the french quarter, we braved the New Orleans street car system, (about as inefficiently organized as it could be) to the Garden District. We toured six blocks of mansions and stopped into the Lafayette Cemetery to view the above ground tombs. Beautiful houses, beautiful cemetery. I’ve now got a running list of architectural features to toss onto any house I might build someday, starting with surrounding gardens, inner courtyards, and liberal use of second story rot-iron balconies.
Back in the french quarter, we ate at Johnnys, a famous po’boy shop on St. Louis street. I had the Johnny special: roast beef, ham, and cheese, and the sweet potato fries. Both were well worth the wait and health code violations it took to get the food.
In evening we got hurricanes on Bourbon street and toured that famous road a little bit further, but we were tired. Back at our apartment we watched lost and got ready for St. Patrick’s Day.
St. Patrick’s Day: The streets were especially quiet in the morning, all the parties still sleeping off their pre-gaming. We ate breakfast at the Pere Antoine. I found the service uninspired, but my red beans and rice with andoulle sausage was quite good. Afterwards, we watched a film crew for the HBO series Treme filming in front of St. Louis Cathedral.
We had the option of taking a Katrina Tour (too depressing), a steamboat tour (I worked on a boat), or a swamp tour. We choose the swamp tour. It was touristy, I suppose, but we saw snapping turtles, plenty of alligators, and an assortment of birds along an old oil company canal that connected to the deeper bayou. Jean Lafitte’s swamp tours did a good job keeping the two hour tour entertaining even for the people less enthused by nature.
On the advice we overheard from one of our fellow swamp tourists, we ate at the Mona Lisa pizza place on the East Side of Royale street almost outside of the old city. The pizza was averageish, but the bruschetta was excellent and the atmosphere was very cozy. It seems more like a pizza place for natives than a tourist facade. Fair warning, their music selection was highly eclectic — Alanis Morissette and Mame right after each other.
After dinner Bourbon street started to liven up. By midnight we had seen a half a dozen live entertained including a street corner jazz band seemingly assembled from nowhere, a New Orleans parade in its resplendent bead-enthralled glory, and a good experience of what Mardi Gras must be like. The St. Patrick’s Day parade is seemingly a bit less indulgent and there’s definitely less college kids walking around, so probably the better experience if booze-besottedness isn’t on the itinerary.
Our last day, the 18th, was basically a day of rest. We ate at McDonalds in the morning, walked along the boardwalk, toured the Mint, and finished up our exploration of the old streets.
For dinner, we ate at Broussards, one of the old high cuisine restaurants snuggled in beside routine bars and tourist trap gift sellers. In a fun bit of irony, our quiet and mild-mannered busboy had been a dancers from jazz band the night before. The food was less explicitly Cajun than the other establishments we went to, concentrating more on routine french preparation and haute cousine standards. Predictably, we walked away a hundred dollars lacking, but the old style formality was a nice coda to a vacation that saw everything from 12 ounce rum drinks to Who Dat shirts to old french antique stores.
On the 19th we came home. The week was a thoroughly enjoyable adventure down south. Any longer and we would have likely gotten board, but four/five days in the quarter let us experience pretty close to everything they had going. It’s a pretty great vacation spot especially if renting a car isn’t an option (or undesired). There are plenty of hotels within walking distance and it’s nice relaxing experience. I’ve managed to get a few pictures off my camera. Enjoy!